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  • Argentinian cookies explained: The glutton’s guide to alfajores

    Argentinian cookies explained: The glutton’s guide to alfajores

    What are alfajores?

    Alfajores are a typical Argentine confection made with two plain cookies with dulce de leche in between. They are sweet cookie sandwiches typically enjoyed as an afternoon treat or as dessert.

    Of course, other fillings than dulce de leche can be used to make alfajores, and by changing the kind of cookie used and the coating, you get an entirely different alfajor experience.

    The different types of alfajores (Argentinian cookies)

    We know visitors love our alfajores, but many don’t know there’s a world of alfajores out there besides Havanna’s (no shade – Havanna is great!). That’s why we put together a “beginner’s guide to alfajores” of sorts, to help newcomers discover the delicious world of alfajores. Beware: after reading this article, you’ll probably be craving an alfajor…

    Alfajores de maicena

    Alfajores de maicena are made with cornstarch (that’s the meaning of maicena), and most are produced artisanally, as the soft, crumbling cookie is not usually easy to transport.

    You can find alfajores de maicena in cafés and bakeries, in varying sizes (we’ve seen literal alfajor de maicena cakes out there). We always tell people to order an alfajor de maicena together with a good cup of coffee, as the texture can feel very dry because of the cornstarch.

    Traditional alfajores

    Unlike alfajores de maicena, most alfajores are made with regular wheat flour. Traditional alfajores can be split into two groups: chocolate alfajores and sugar glaze alfajores. The alfajor itself is basically the same – what changes is the coating.

    Alfajores de fruta

    Besides dulce de leche filling, many typical alfajores featured a jam or jelly filling. The most traditional ones feature a quince paste filling (membrillo), but we’ve seen many strawberry and berry jam-filled alfajores in the city lately, like the ones of trendsetting chocolatier Rapanui.

    Where to buy alfajores in Buenos Aires?

    You can buy alfajores pretty much anywhere: bakeries, cafés, supermarkets, kiosks and dedicated alfajor stores such as Havanna’s and Cachafaz. However, which alfajor to buy depends on what you are looking for.

    Our pick of the best alfajor brands out there

    Alfajores Havanna

    Havanna’s 70% cocoa chocolate alfajores are a must-try if you are visiting Buenos Aires. You are bound to bump into an Havanna sooner or later, so don’t miss your chance to try it. Unlike Havanna’s classic chocolate alfajores, the 70% cocoa ones are made with a dark chocolate coating. While they are not as sweet, they are exceedingly decadent (this is not sponsored, by the way, we are honestly just fans of the product).

    Cachafaz

    Some argue that Cachafaz has a better alfajor than Havanna. And while Cachafaz may not have the same reach, they definitely can take on their rival with their signature chocolate alfajor. Cachafaz has a few stores strategically placed throughout the city, usually close to tourist hotspots. They can also be bought at some kiosks and supermarkets.

    Jorgito

    Less fancy than Havanna and Cachafaz, Jorgito alfajores are an affordable and sweet treat when the afternoon cravings start. This brand has been going strong since the 1960s, and many remember it fondly from their childhood. Buy them by the unit at a kiosk or venture to your closest supermarket to buy a 6 pack. They also have a “mini” alfajor pack that is perfect for dessert.

    Capitán del Espacio

    Capitán del Espacio (“Space Captain”) is a beloved alfajor brand with an almost cult-like following. The taste is very similar to Jorgito, but the brand’s atypical marketing (or lack thereof) has been at the center of its success. The alfajores are produced in the nearby Quilmes city, and in very limited quantities.

    Finding this alfajor in Buenos Aires used to be such a novelty that people would spread the word if they found a kiosk selling the elusive Capitán. Nowadays they are much easier to locate, but porteños still feel a rush of excitement when they manage to get hold of one.

    Gourmet alfajores

    La Olla de Cobre

    You are not gonna find this tip anywhere else, but La Olla de Cobre (The Copper Pot) makes the best alfajor in the entire country. They are not easy to find but are worth the treasure hunt.

    The artisanal chocolatier is located in the San Antonio de Areco town, which is 120km away from Buenos Aires, and worth a visit to get an idea of what gaucho life used to be like.

    In Buenos Aires, the store Sabores Increíbles (Ayacucho 1158) usually has some in stock.

    Rústico Chocolate

    Granted, not everyone can travel to Areco, and maybe you don’t want to go to all this trouble for an alfajor. But if you are in the mood for sweet treat on the gourmet spectrum, head to Rústico Chocolate in Palermo (Godoy Cruz 1823). They have a fantastic selection of artisanal alfajores with a few twists. Grab a coffee while you are at it!

    Regional alfajores: don’t miss out on these treats

    If you are traveling the country and venturing beyond Buenos Aires, don’t miss your chance to try some regional alfajores. Some provinces have put their own spin on the alfajor.

    Alfajor Santefecino

    The province of Santa Fe (which is the birthplace of iconic Argentinian desserts such as Rogel or Chocotorta) is famous for its alfajores santafecinos, which are made with three layers of puff pastry, dulce de leche filling and a sugar glaze.

    Alfajor Cordobés

    The province of Córdoba is also famous for its jelly-filled alfajores. They feature a soft alfajor cookie, a quince-jelly filling, and a sugar glaze.

    Because many regional alfajores are artisanally produced, you sometimes come across very unusual creations (such as fernet-infused alfajores). Other provinces also sell “their” own alfajores, but Cordoba’s and Santa Fe’s are the well-known ones.

    Alfajor marplatense

    Technically not a regional alfajor, but we can’t talk about alfajores in such detail and not mention the huge role that the coastal city of Mar del Plata plays in the alfajor industry. Mar del Plata is where Havanna got its start, and the city – a historical vacation spot for porteños – has a fierce alfajor market (and also the best medialunas in the entire country, but that’s a conversation for another day). An alfajor that makes it in Mar del Plata can make it anywhere.

    Alfajor trivia and FAQs

    Which are some good gluten-free alfajores?

    There’s the widely available Chocoarroz (the cookie is replaced with puffed rice), and other gluten-free certified brands such as Chocoleit, Celienergy, Coprigio, Dantelli and Cerro Azul. Havanna’s Semilia and Vegano are gluten-free as well. Gluten-free alfajores are marked with the «Sin TACC» crossed-out wheat spike logo, which certifies that a product is 100% gluten-free.

    Where can I find gluten-free alfajores in Buenos Aires?

    You can buy Chocoarroz at any kiosk or supermarket. The other brands are a little harder to come by – try Bonafide or any “dietética” (health food store). You can buy Havanna’s gluten-free alfajores at their stores.

    Which brands have vegan alfajores?

    Havanna’s Vegano is vegan and gluten-free (beware, the Semilia is not vegan). Cerro Azul, Rincón Vegano and Felices las Vacas are also vegan. Coprigio has a vegan option as well.

    Where can I buy vegan alfajores in Buenos Aires?

    You can buy Havanna’s Vegano at their stores (by the unit or in bulk). Cerro Azul and Rincón Vegano and Felices Las Vacas are usually found at health-food stores or sometimes in kiosks. Rústico Chocolate has an artisanal vegan alfajor with peanut butter and strawberry filling.

    Is the alfajor from Argentina?

    Alfajores were brought to South America by the Spanish during the 16th century, but they (probably) originated in the Middle East centuries before that. We do know that alfajores were introduced to Spain sometime during the 8th century, when the Iberian peninsula was under Moor occupation. Argentina took the alfajores and added its own take, which was, of course, the dulce de leche – and so it was that alfajores became “Argentinian cookies”.

    What is the difference between Peruvian and Argentinian alfajores?

    Truth be told, they are pretty similar. Peruvians call dulce de leche “manjar blanco”, but the alfajor itself is pretty much the same. Of course, there are many alfajor variations within each country’s regions, but the basic product is the same.

    What is the Mundial de Alfajores?

    The “Mundial de Alfajores” or “Alfajor World Championship” is an alfajor fair and contest first held in 2022. Small businesses can compete to win the best alfajor award in different categories, and the public can sample alfajores from all over the country. The 2023 edition of the Mundial de Alfajores will be held in August in La Rural (Buenos Aires City).

    Argentina Has Its Sweet Side, Too

    And at Sherpa, we try everything!

  • 10 Fun Things to do in San Telmo

    10 Fun Things to do in San Telmo

    Welcome to San Telmo, one of Buenos Aires oldest neighborhoods, and one of the most traditional as well. Cobbled streets, art galleries, chic cafés, antiques, and fresh produce… old and new meet and mesh in San Telmo in wonderful ways, and we are here to show you just how.

    Here’s a quick overview:

    1. San Telmo Market (Defensa 963)
    2. Defensa Street Fair (Defensa 100 – 1500)
    3. Plaza Dorrego & Antique Market (Humberto 1º 400)
    4. San Telmo Food Tour
    5. Parque Lezama & National History Museum (Defensa 1600)
    6. Modern Art Museum (Av. San Juan 350)
    7. Pasaje de la Defensa (Defensa 1179)
    8. Casa Mínima (San Lorenzo 380)
    9. Mafalda Statue (Defensa 700)
    10. Comic Strip Walk (several stops)
    things to do in san telmo buenos aires

    San Telmo Market

    The San Telmo Market is open from Tuesday to Sunday, unlike the Feria de San Telmo which takes place every Sunday. The indoor market first opened in 1897 and it hasn’t changed much since. The San Telmo Market has it all: antique jewelry, knick-knacks, fresh produce, and several food stalls and cafés where you can grab a bite (we especially like Hornero for regional food and Beba Cocina for porteño staples with a twist).

    The San Telmo Market is located in Defensa 963. It opens from 10.30 am to 7.30 from Tuesday to Friday, and from 9 am to 8 pm during weekends and public holidays. It’s better to show up around midday, as Argentines aren’t early risers. Sundays can be very crowded, as the Market gets a lot of overflow from the neighboring Feria. The ideal day to visit is either a Saturday or a weekday. And wear sensible shoes (this goes for anything you do in San Telmo except maybe Tango dancing).

    Defensa Street Fair

    San Telmo’s flea market is the most well-known street fair in the entire city.

    Every Sunday, Defensa Street is covered with stalls selling everything and anything: kitschy souvenirs, leather goods, antiques, designer clothing, and stationery…Locals and tourists alike flock to the street fair to browse the goods; you can easily spend hours walking along the cobblestone streets. The best part? Most of what you will see here are handmade items made by the stall owners themselves. Bring cash, most won’t accept international cards.

    The Street Fair goes all the way from Plaza de Mayo to Parque Lezama, but the best stalls are the ones closer to Plaza Dorrego. You can visit from 10 am to 5 pm (the earlier the better).

    Plaza Dorrego & Antique Market

    At the heart of San Telmo lies the iconic Plaza Dorrego, which hosts the antique market every Sunday. Some street vendors will also set up shop during the week. Bohemian, relaxed, and lively, this is the perfect place to take a break.

    Take a look around the square, grab a table at one of the nearby restaurants or cafés, and have a drink. The food here is nothing to write home about; we recommend a cup of coffee or maybe a lemonade or a soda during the hot summer months. What makes sitting down worth it are the tango dancers: you can always catch a show here, which is a great (and quicker) alternative to the 3-hour affairs that are most tango experiences.

    San Telmo Food Tour

    If what you are looking for is a tour of San Telmo with some fantastic food, the San Telmo Food Tour hosted by Sherpa (that’s us) is your go-to. The tour takes you to iconic historic restaurants and locations (including the San Telmo Market), and gives you the chance to try the very best dishes in Argentine cuisine, including some unexpected treats you probably haven’t heard about yet.

    There’s drinks, there’s wine, there’s steak (of course) and there’s fun guaranteed (but don’t take our word for it – take a look at our stellar reviews from previous guests).

    Parque Lezama & National History Museum

    If you visit San Telmo on a Sunday, the Defensa Street Fair will eventually lead you to Parque Lezama, a quieter park in the neighborhood. It has its own fair, as most important parks do, but the real highlight here is the National History Museum.

    Housed in a colonial mansion, the museum is a gorgeous architectural piece to visit. If you are lucky, you may catch the grenadier guard change – two granaderos are permanently stationed to watch the sword of national hero José de San Martín, which is kept at the museum. Admission is free, so take a quick peek if you can.

    Modern Art Museum

    Bright, quiet, and often colorful, the Modern Art Museum clashes a little bit with the old flair of San Telmo, but the change is welcome. Admission is free for locals only, but the entrance fee is quite cheap (and free on Wednesdays). Even if modern art isn’t your jam, the museum is the perfect spot to catch a break if you are visiting during the summer months – there’s AC, free wifi, and a lovely little café that serves a great iced latte.

    Pasaje de la Defensa

    While a visit to San Telmo almost always entails a trip to the Market or a stroll through Defensa Street, you should definitely stop by Pasaje de la Defensa (Defensa Alley) during your tour of the area.

    This mansion used to be the home of the aristocratic Ezeiza family back in the 19th century. The Ezeizas fled the place when the yellow fever struck, affecting the area closest to the river. The building was converted into a multi-family tenement home or “conventillo”, as happened with most of the once luxurious mansions in San Telmo and Barracas.

    The present-day Pasaje de la Defensa is a beautiful gallery featuring gorgeous architecture, antique shops, and cafés.

    Casa Mínima

    With just 2.5 meters width (that’s 2,73 yards for our friends from the US) this is the narrowest house in town, and maybe the world (the latter is just a guess, but we Argentines enjoy making claims of being the most at something). The tour is lackluster, but this is a great location to snap a picture (stretch your arms to the sides as much as you can for maximum comedic effect). It’s right around the corner from Defensa Street and Independencia Avenue, so you don’t have to go out of your way to see it.

    Mafalda Statue

    Argentina is pretty well known for our comic strips, with Mafalda being a world-famous character, a beloved local icon, and even a UNESCO ambassador. Fun fact: Mafalda has a small easter egg appearance in the DCU, showing up in a keychain Suicide Squad 2 (which takes place in the fictional “Argentine-adjacent” island of Corto Maltese.

    There’s a Mafalda statue in San Telmo, and people will line up to take a picture with Argentina’s favorite kid. You can skip the queue if you are in San Telmo during the week (usually), or very early during the weekend.

    Comic Strip Walk

    If you are into comic strips, check out the Paseo de la Historieta, i.e. “comic strip walk”. The Mafalda statue is one of many statues that pay homage to the most famous national comic strips. This is a fun walk you can do to explore San Telmo and the nearby areas of Montserrat and Puerto Madero, and a great activity for people of all ages, particularly kids. Here are all the stops!